Why am I covering how to take plant cuttings in this week’s blog?
Well, I was chatting to my neighbour Desi on the weekend and she mentioned that plant prices are expected to go up next year. She’s a professional gardener so she should know! I was alarmed. After all, I feel they already went up pretty steeply this year.
So, there couldn’t be a better moment to ‘gen’ up on all those ways we can increase the stock of plants in our garden, without having to head to our wallets or the garden centre. Especially as September is such a good time to take cuttings of a number of plants.
How to Take Plant Cuttings – First Up Know Your Plants
It really isn’t complicated to take plant cuttings but you do need to think about the plants you are taking them from. This is because the technique varies between tender perennials, larger shrubs and hardwood plants.
Not sure what your plant is? Don’t panic, I didn’t either when I started out gardening. You do get the hang of it, the more you do.
How to Take Plant Cuttings – Tender Perennials.
Tender perennials are things like penstemons, salvias, fuchsias, pelargoniums and verbenas.
As the name suggests, while they broadly come back year after year, they can be tender and suddenly die on you, if the winter is too harsh.
However, the good news is that all of these beauties root really easily and quickly.
Step 1
First, prepare the pots or containers that the cuttings will go into. You need a gritty compost or compost mixed with perlite. The ratio should be about 50:50. Having a mix like this provides drainage and aerates the soil. As the big killer for cuttings is rotting!
Step 2
Take your cutting. You want non-flowering side shoots. So these will typically be growing at 45 degrees on the plant. Cut them off with sharp secateurs (or I use scissors) just below a leaf node (where leaves are growing from the stem). This is where the plant hormones are really concentrated apparently. You want your end cutting to be about 8-10cm long.
Step 3
Remove the lower leaves of the cutting carefully – you don’t want to damage it. Just leaving a pair of leaves at the top.
Step 4
Dip the base of your cutting in water then into rooting compost.
Step 5
Use a knife or a pencil to create a gap in your compost mix then quickly pop your cutting into the hole and firm the compost gently around it.
Water it well letting the spare water drain away and the foiliage dry. Again you don’t want soggy leaves as that will encouraging rotting. If I’ve lots of time and patience I sometimes let the pot soak up water from below, so that the cutting itself doesn’t get disturbed too much.
I typically use a large-ish pot and put several cuttings in each. Taking care that their leaves don’t touch. This is a good idea as otherwise you are devoting a lot of compost to one cutting – and not all of the cuttings will necessarily take. Well mine don’t!
Step 6
The experts say you should then place the pot in a propagator, or put a clear polythene bag over the pot – taking care that the bag doesn’t touch the cuttings. I’m not very good with the polythene bag malarkey so I have a propagator type pot. But I have also successfully raised cuttings without a bag or a propagator. So as with most aspects of gardening I’d suggest if you don’t have a propagator or bag you still give it a go.
Pelargoniums in particular don’t need a bag or a propagator to thrive. So if you’ve some gorgeous specimens like those below, what are you waiting for, take some cuttings.
Step 7
Put the cuttings in a well lit spot but not in direct sunlight. So a bright windowsill is fine. If you’ve put a bag around your cuttings remove it each day to shake off the spare moisture and let the air in. Otherwise it will become a damp fug and yes, you guessed it, you’ll encourage the dreaded rotting!
Step 8
In about 6-8 weeks your cutting should have rooted. Hurrah! Then pot them on to larger containers. Overwinter them in the greenhouse, conservatory or keep them on that window ledge (poor Mr F-W is permanently surrounded by my cuttings). Then harden off in spring ready for planting out.
How to Take Plant Cuttings – Shrubs
There are lots of shrubs you can take cuttings from. Hebe, choisya, lavender, hydrangea, rosemary and philadelphus all root well. This is good news as with the erratic weather we’ve had in the past year I think a lot of my shrubs – especially the hebe, and lavender are a bit vulnerable. So having cuttings is a good insurance policy.
The technique is exactly the same as I’ve described for perennials. Just make sure you choose a healthy cutting from a strong stem and make sure it hasn’t flowered.
Although the technique is the same, I’ve found that lavender and rosemary in particular are tricky to get going. For these some people suggest you take a heel cutting. All this means is that you again choose a side shoot that is growing from the main stem. But instead of cutting you carefully tear it off. You need to make sure it retains a small sliver of bark from the main stem. That bit is known as a ‘heel’.
Everything else in terms of handling the cutting is then as before. It works well. I’ve replaced a few of the lavender plants in my line of lavenders above, through growing my own cuttings.
How to Take Plant Cuttings – Hardwoods
Hardwood cuttings are best taken from September to mid-winter, just after leaves have fallen.
Good candidates for cuttings include roses, cornus, jasmine, deutzia, buddleja, viburnum, weigela, forsythia and honeysuckle, plus fruit bushes like fig, black, red and white currants, blackberry and gooseberry.
Wow…imagine all the plants you can create for yourself – or your friends. And all the money you can save.
However, the process is slightly different than for perennials.
Step 1
First up choose stems from this year’s growth. You’re looking for well-ripened shoots. They need to have become woody and a bit inflexible. They should be about as thick as a pencil. Use sharp secateurs (I can’t use scissors for these) remove the shoot horizontally below a node, leaf joint or a bud.
Step 2
Prepare each cutting by removing the shoot tip just above a bud. This top end cut should be on a slant. This is for two reasons. Firstly it will help water run off the planted cutting – important for avoiding rot. Secondly having the top end sloping means when it comes to planting you will know which end is the top! Rather important as you can imagine if you have a pile of cuttings on your table and the leaves are gone. I’ve gotten into a right pickle before with this!
Having trimmed the top end with its nice slanted cut, then trim the bottom – again just below the bud but with a straight cut. Ultimately the trimmed cutting wants to be roughly 20cm in length.
Step 3
Dip the cutting into it the rooting powder before planting. Put the cuttings about 10 cm deep in a pot filled with your compost mixture as before. Again you can put multiple cuttings in the same large-ish pot. Water the cuttings.
Trench Option
If you are taking a lot of hardwood cuttings, you can actually put them straight in the ground in a prepared trench. Simply prepare your trench in a sheltered spot. It needs to have well-drained soil. I’d dig in a bucketful of garden compost every metre or so just to give the cuttings an extra boost.
Step 4
Whether you are using a trench or a pot, make sure you leave a few buds above the ground to allow the plant to grow away in spring.
I only grow a few cuttings so favour using a pot. This needs to be overwintered in a cold frame or an unheated greenhouse.
Step 5
Keep the cuttings well-watered.
Now don’t expect quick results here. This type of cutting is slow to develop roots and shoots. That’s because the cut surface of the cutting needs to callus over the winter and it’s from this callused surface that the roots will develop in the spring. But the good news is, your patience will most likely be rewarded as these cuttings rarely fail. (Music to my ears).
Step 6
Leave the plants for a good year before transplanting the following autumn.
With a bit of luck, my cuttings in the above picture may give me more of this gorgeous rose, Wildeve.
Couldn’t Be Easier – So Give it a Go
If you think this all sounds a faff, I’d still urge you to give it a go. The satisfaction that comes from propagating your own plants is huge. I think I cried the first time I successfully took a cutting.
Cuttings are a fantastic insurance policy, especially for some tender perennials and shrubs which can unexpectedly (and heartbreakingly) die on you if the winter is particularly harsh.
And even if you end up with more plants of something you don’t particular want for yourself, it’s still worth doing. You can give the successful new plants to friends. Or why not do plant swaps with other gardeners. It’s the most brilliant way to increase the stock of plants in your garden – and to make new friends.
If you see a plant in a friend or neighbour’s garden which you like the look of ask what it is. Give it a quick Google and see if it’s one you can take a cutting from in the ways I’ve described. If it is, ask if you may. Most people will be happy to share the joy of their wonderful plants with you.
I’d even be tempted to ask complete strangers. Gardeners tend to be nice people – so ask. Happy, money-saving gardening! x
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